(no subject)

This morning I got up and went straight to my computer to tune into the U.S. Open Surfing Competition in Huntington Beach. My friend’s son was surfing at 8 am. He won his heat yesterday, which I missed. Unfortunately, he didn’t win today. My friend and her brothers surfed their whole lives, her brothers turned pro for a while; she married a surfer, her sons turned pro. She lives in Puerto Rico. We reconnected on FB. Her passion has not wavered.

I streamed it for hours yesterday and still have it on now, 3 hours after Dylan lost. I love watching it, the waves are small and the surfers need to do a lot of tricks to score. The small waves remind me of Florida except on certain storm influenced or miracle days.Watching surfing contests live was always festive and communal. Surf contests are interesting because the contest is scheduled and the surfers just have to accept whatever waves are there. It may be flat as a pancake during their heat. They have to make the absolute best of the tiniest swell and break. I like watching them stretch out a wave that’s dwindling, they kind of hop. Of course watching them surf firm strong waves is the coolest.

Without resorting to the surfer lingo and inflection clichés, I love listening to the commentators and the surfers talk. They’re mellow, they’re cool, they’re like fish, the water is their first choice of environment, their whole purpose is to merge with the sea.

I know at some point I’ll return to a place where there is a warm ocean very nearby.  I miss the beach. I love to walk in the alternatively crunchy or silky, cold or hot sand; to hear the ceaseless sighs of the waves, the crash as they hit the beach, the shivering tinkling sound of shells being churned up, over and over.

Today, its 58 degrees and gray; my coldest, dreariest summer ever. I’m in sweat pants, t-shirt, sweat shirt, fleece robe, Uggs and a hat. Absolutely ridiculous.

Now, back to job listings, Huffington Post, FB, LJ and every other distraction this glorious so far, net neutral world provides. Oh, and coffee.